The Vines and Their Roots
Wall display of the “soil” beneath the vines at Château Giscours in Margaux, France. May 2019.
Out the noisy, aluminum, back door and on the other side of the concrete slab at my grandma’s house stood the grape arbor. In winter, the arbor was six, simple, naked, white posts connected with overhead crossbeams and side beams and six corresponding, woody, brownish- grey, shaggy, concord grapevines naked and elegantly resting into the arbor at each post. When spring, and then, when summer came, Grandma sternly reminded us to stay off the arbor. As tempting as it was for me to hang upside down from the crossbeams, I, usually, refrained because I had learned that those shaggy vines somehow gave us the grapes, that made the juice, that got turned into the divinely beloved grape jelly. This was my first introduction to the grapevine, and I have been enchanted by it ever since.
We have spent time in vineyards around the world… in Lebanon, Australia, South Africa, California, Canada, and France. At one time, we even owned a 130 year old home in Shelbyville, Indiana where the vineyard was gone, but the land was still rippled from where the vines had been. My parents planted concord vines in their small garden space fifteen years ago… and enjoy the juice from each harvest throughout the year. There are so many references in the Bible about grapevines, how they grow, their importance in the culture of the day, and as a very descriptive metaphor for a closeness with The Creator.
When Scott and I celebrated our 30th wedding anniversary in Bordeaux, France in 2019, our time with the wines, vines and vineyards was particularly close to my heart. One place in particular stands out to me in deepening my understanding of the grapevine, and I was even able to see some parallels in growth and development to us humans.
Built into the stucco wall in the lower levels of the cuvier was a wooden and glass framed display of a replica of the particular types of soil in which the grapes grew and had grown since the mid 1500’s. I had to take a photo as the tour guide was speaking because his stories created a new place of knowing in me. The photo was taken at the Château Giscours while on our trip to France along the rivers, Gironde (Estuary), Garonne, and Dordogne. Margaux is on the Left Bank and sports some of the best Left Bank wines of the region and in my opinion of the world. Yes, I love wine, nearly all types, preferably Old World, red, dry, bold, acidic,… but this photo and story isn’t really about my wine preferences or wine styles in general. This photo and story is about time, age, endurance, hard work, slogging, paying attention, depth, richness, finding purpose…
Access to sun, water, nutrients, and good drainage is critical to the growth of the vine, photosynthesis, root system, and the production and ripening of the grapes. The way this slice/re-creation display of the “soil” was explained at the time produced in me a wonder, curiosity, and a new deep connection to the life of the vine. The tour guide explained the unique characteristics of each layer - their benefits to the vine and what they actually allowed for the vine. The tour guide also mentioned the age and fight that the vine and roots would endure and for how long they would stay in each layer before reaching the next.
For some reason, I didn’t write this information down at the time nor did I journal about it. Perhaps I was too busy enjoying the moment and the wine at the time to journal, but the memory of the feelings this display stirred in me still exists.
There are four wooden arrows along the right side of the photo.
1.) The top (first) arrow points to the top soil - organic material. “For the first two or three years of its life, a young vine is too busy creating a root system and building a strong woody trunk to bear more than a few grapes, but it is able to produce a commercial crop from its third year, proved it is persuaded to do so by pruning,” according to The World Atlas of Wine. If this first layer is too rich, the roots don’t have to work very hard to find what they need and the vine can become very leafy and the roots lazy. The roots can spend approximately 20 years here before reaching the next layer and they can produce a lot of grapes that are very fruity, lively, productive, fun, and contain lots of energy - reminded me of a teenager as the tour guide spoke. These grapes can be so fruity that they usually require blending with the older vines. Their high yield, however, compliments the reduced production of the aging vines.
2.) Second Arrow points to the Layer of Gravel and Sand. This is where, at this particular château, the vines spend the bulk of their time. The roots must work more intently for their moisture and nutrients, production begins to decrease year by year, but the quality, complexity, boldness, richness, and structure increases year by year - dependent also on what’s going on above ground. This work that the roots must do in search of their nutritional needs creates the flavor complexities. I find this fascinating! If my memory serves me, the time in the gravel and sand layer can be until the vine is around 60 years old.
3.) Third Arrow points to the Layer of Clay and Sand. The clay, in particular, provides a reward of nutrients for the hard work traveling through the 2nd layer of gravel and sand. The yield continues little by little to decrease, but, again, the beauty of flavor and richness continues to increase. The vines can age up to around 80 years in this layer.
4.) Fourth Arrow points to the Layer of Hard Limestone. Once again, if my memory serves me, this is where more water could be accessed occasionally when there is rain. Whether that’s the case or not, the vine is now 80-100 years old. These old vines produce the least amount, but their quality, flavor, and smoothness create the top wines without any need of blending. These are the cream of the crop! The roots travel through the harshest layers. Many vines never make it this far; they are pulled out due to poor yield, pest infestation, rot, making room for a more popular varietal, or something else.
The thing is… as I was listening and absorbing, I put this vine story in a place parallel to human development and the process of aging. I gave it some thought as I listened to the tour guide then, and I have continued to ponder the connection ever since. The work, the changes, how long it can take to find purpose, simplicity, complexity, and strength, what is endured by the vines and the roots to get what is needed for the sake of the fruit, and the similarities to us humans simply amazes me.
Grapes from Coonawarra, Australia, March 2015.
World Atlas of Wine 8th Edition by Hugh Johnson & Jancis Robinson…used for fact checking some points of my memory and 1 quote from page 13.
